Turquoise water, white sand, sun and beautiful sea life.  Southern Thailand has certainly lived up to the many recommendations that I’ve received.  To my surprise, it doesn’t make the cut for remoteness or relatively few people, but if I just counted North Americans then it would be pretty deserted.  At times, I thought that I was either in Russia or Sweden because apparently, southern Thailand is to Europe as the Caribbean is to the US.  Thailand’s tourist industry is booming, and islands that were supposedly once remote backpacker scenes are now lined with resorts.

As I walked the beaches of the Similan Islands and Khao Lak and dove in the warm water, I noticed few reminders of the devastation this area experienced 5 years ago.  In December 2004, Khao Lak was essentially wiped off the map for a short period as a result of the Indian Ocean Tsunami.  The official numbers for the 30 km coastline of the Khao Lak area are ~8000 deaths, but many speculate that the number is closer to 10-12,000 deaths (the government did not count the undocumented Burmese workers).  

No one spoke of the Tsunami, and the one time I inquired about whether some trees we were driving past were planted after the Tsunami, the look I received from the Thai surfer filled me with shame for being so insensitive as to off-handedly mention a tragic event that was clearly permanently imprinted in his mind and heart.  This man’s family lived on the beach.  A beach that he was driving me to for an experimental surfing lesson at sunset.  As I walked up to his new restaurant, I was filled with a desire to sit at one of his newly constructed bamboo tables and enjoy the laid-back, cheerful atmosphere for the rest of my trip.  There was little development on the beach other than a fancy resort 300 meters north and his restaurant that will hopefully fill up as word spreads.  I later learned that the area was once a hot-spot for backpackers and small family-owned bungalows providing a stark contrast from the resorts in Khao Lak.  But the cost of re-building and the loss of loved ones, left many Thai families unable to revive their family businesses. 

As I sat at the restaurant eating fish and drinking Singha, I was amazed at the resiliency and energy of everyone I had encountered.  An expat paramedic who triaged during the Tsunami did not talk about the loss of life and destruction, but of the amazing Buddhist attitude to continue forward on the path for enlightenment and peace.  My travels in Thailand have constantly been flavored with the concepts of Buddhism and the warmth, friendliness and energy that the Thai people draw from their religion.  It is apparent that this outlook on life has helped a community successfully fight to move forward despite unforgettable losses. 

Well, as you can tell, I’ve not been spending my time in Thailand blogging.  Most of my time has been on my back, stomach, and side in a room with multiple mattresses getting stretched and pounded by a Thai woman.  It’s called Thai massage, but I’ve also seen it advertised as Thai yoga massage and Thai physical massage.  I’m not sure any of these names really do the experience justice.

As I walked into my first massage, I was a bit nervous as I had heard stories of pain and bruising.  I quickly learned that all thoughts of a relaxing and soothing experience needed to be left with my shoes at the door.  The Thai masseuse is not in the business of providing serenity through calming music and simple decorations, but rather is there to fix your aches and pains and realign your body by stretching, cracking and stomping.  No clothes are removed and no privacy is provided.  While experiencing pain, pleasure and awkwardness, I get to be surrounded by others on similar mattresses with similar feelings.  In addition, there always proves to be a constant chatter amongst the Thai masseuses and at least a few pauses for cell phone conversations.

Please don’t misunderstand me, the end result leaves the body limber, energetic and anticipating another 2 hour pounding.  I’ve been placed in a bridge over the top of my masseuse, had my legs twisted around them, and had their heels in my groin with my legs in a frog position.  Their fingers, elbows, and heels have a way of finding every tight spot in the body.  No good massage will leave you without a bruise or two.

I’ve now had massages from a women’s prison, from the blind, on the street in the middle of a market, and in side alley rooms with signs advertising $3 massages.  Somehow, I’ve failed to walk into any establishment with spa in its title.  When thinking about my week, I now plan at least 3 massages into my days and somehow justify it as my exercise.

I’m afraid that I’ve cheated on my boda boda man.  Traveling to a new continent has brought new men with new wheels.  Originally, I preferred the Song Taos, which are red pick-up trucks that have no route and take you on round-a-bout rides to your destination while picking up other passengers.  But then I took my first Tuk Tuk, and now have a hard time not paying slightly more for a vibrating, private and very noisy personal ride around Chiang Mai.  Please see the photos above for a visual.

Of course, walking beats out any man on wheels, but Thai city walking culture seems to take after that of the US….i.e. nonexistent.  My walk to and from the hospital is a 30-minute virtual game of Frogger.  On my first day, a nice elderly woman on the street had to take my hand to help me cross.  Like the game, Frogger, it is a complete gamble whether you’ll make it across, and there can be no expectation for cars to stop.  There must be some learned tricks because I no longer have surges of adrenaline and now feel comfortable dashing between motorcycles and cars.

Despite not walking to get from place to place, Chiang Mai residents love to come out walking at night.  The Sunday and Saturday Walking Streets are especially fun for people watching and shopping.  This is essentially a market that occurs on certain streets each weekend night that focuses on selling home-made goods as well as providing various entertainment in the form of food and street acts.  Both tourists and Thais come to wander for the evening with many stops for dinner and massages.  It is a laid-back atmosphere that makes it difficult not to fall in love with the Thai food, massage and music culture that is present in every part of the city.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!  Enjoy turkey, family and friends.

My first blog… what does one say? I’ll confess that I really didn’t marry a boda boda driver. Of course, I may have had the opportunity when living in Uganda, but decided it best that I resist the temptation of these romantic Ugandan motorcycle drivers. If I had married one, I could probably be riding around Kampala with 3 children and my husband all on the same boda. I’d probably have invested in helmets and black leather kiddie clothes by now. Maybe even some reflectors or blinking lights around the tire rims.

But instead, I’m sitting in Minneapolis with my good friend Aneel, two days before I leave for a rotation in Thailand. If interested, you can see his blog at Domestic Conversations. Or perhaps, our friend, Sarah’s blog, Distant Conversations. We started residency together and have now gone separate ways to explore Ethiopia, Chicago, and a yet to be determined location on my end. If only Sarah were here, enjoying Angry Planet, The Current, and good company.

This blog will start as a requirement for my rotation in Thailand, but who knows, maybe I’ll be surprised and find it traveling with me in the future. For now, I plan to enjoy a good meal followed by a wig party. Mr. Clean would be proud as I plan to sport his blue and white kitchen mop on my head. Aneel will be wearing my childhood wig that I wore as a witch when I was 6 years old. Pictures will follow.